Beaches, lighthouses and maritime heritage captivate visitors to this historic town on Lake Michigan. Groups enjoy downtown shopping and the casual coastal vibe.
When I think of summer in Michigan, I picture lakes and lighthouses. And I’m always on the lookout for history and nostalgia.
All of this came together for me on a recent trip to Ludington, a Great Lakes port that was just voted America’s Best Historic Small Town in USA Today’s 10Best Readers’ Choice Awards.
A refreshing beach town with miles and miles of sandy shoreline, Ludington abounds with historical attractions, many of them related to the lumber and shipping industries on which it was founded in 1873.
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Anticipating the trip, I was most looking forward to a crossing on Lake Michigan from Ludington to Wisconsin aboard a well-preserved relic from another era—the car ferry SS Badger, one of only two mobile National Historic Landmarks (the other being San Francisco’s cable cars).
Waterfront parks and streets lined with beautiful homes, along with a charming downtown full of specialty shops and fun restaurants, lend Ludington a sense of well-being. A comfortable community proud of its past, the town celebrated its sesquicentennial last year.
The availability of large stands of white pine, beech and maple, coupled with waterways to support sawmills and transport of lumber products, led to Ludington’s development in the mid-19th century. Wealth poured in, and lumber barons built lavish Queen Anne- and Italianate-style houses on Ludington Avenue. Some homes are now sumptuous bed and breakfast inns.
The 1905 Cartier Mansion is one of Ludington’s sparkling bed and breakfast inns. (Randy Mink Photo)
Accommodations with a Touch of Yesteryear
Using the self-guided walking tour brochure for the East Ludington Avenue Historic District, I spent an hour gawking at these architectural gems. One of the grandest is the 1905 Cartier Mansion, an 18-room B&B adorned with exquisite woodwork featuring 17 different kinds of wood, from cherry and mahogany to red oak and black walnut. The Neoclassical Revival-style landmark, with stately fluted columns gracing its facade, retains many original items from the family of businessman Warren Cartier, a friend of Thomas Edison, Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone. The carriage house contains four guest rooms, including the Edison Suite, where Mrs. Cartier parked her 1917 Detroit electric car.
I did my own communing with the good old days as a guest of the Stearns Hotel, built on Ludington Avenue in 1903 by Justus S. Stearns, Michigan pine king and Kentucky coal baron. A block from the historic district and close to downtown shops, the hotel stands across from the Mason County Courthouse, a Richardsonian Romanesque building clad in red sandstone and crowned by a clock tower.
Though it’s been updated over the years, the Stearns Hotel retains many of its original elements. Antiques, Ionic columns and a fireplace accent the lobby, and the old-fashioned dial above the elevator is still in place. A soundtrack of tunes from the 1940s and a stack of vintage suitcases set the nostalgic tone.
Ludington offers a variety of lodging options, from motels, hotels and B&Bs to cabins, resorts and vacation rentals. In addition to the Stearns Hotel, others suitable for groups include a Best Western, Comfort Inn, Holiday Inn Express and Rodeway Inn.
Port of Ludington Maritime Museum. (Randy Mink Photo)
Ludington’s Maritime Heritage
Ludington’s colorful past comes to life at the Port of Ludington Maritime Museum, a logical first stop for sightseers. Housed in a former 1934 Coast Guard station and steps away from its replacement, the museum tells the stories of ships and lighthouses, brave seamen and ambitious entrepreneurs. Videos and films, as well as artifacts, text panels and photographs, chronicle the town’s rich nautical heritage.
Most enlightening for me were exhibits on the Lake Michigan car ferries that once carried train cars loaded with freight, in addition to automobiles and tourists, offering a shortcut from western Michigan to eastern Wisconsin. Previously, I hadn’t given this mode of transportation much thought, but studying up at the museum prepared me well for taking the SS Badger two days later. One exhibit, “Steaming into the Future,” focuses exclusively on the Badger.
I also learned about the SS City of Midland 41, a train/auto ferry that provided Lake Michigan service for nearly 50 years before being retired in 1988. Operating out of Ludington to Milwaukee, Kewaunee and Manitowoc, Wisconsin, the beloved “Queen of the Lakes” was the largest car ferry in the world. Curiously, one of the Badger’s lounges has upholstered benches saved from the City of Midland.
A major exhibit explores the Armistice Day Storm that devastated the Midwest on November 11, 1940 and killed many sailors in the Ludington area. Videos include shipwreck photography taken by divers and eyewitness interviews with survivors of a sunken ship.
Beaches and Lighthouses in Ludington, Michigan
Ludington’s symbol is Ludington North Breakwater Light, situated at the end of the breakwall at the harbor entrance. A 57-foot concrete structure clad in riveted white steel plates, the still active light station dates from 1924. From Stearns Park Beach, the iconic beacon is a half-mile walk along the wave-splattered breakwall. For a fee, you can climb to the top via three steep ladders.
Stearns Park Beach, within walking distance of downtown, is Ludington’s ultimate playground. Broad expanses of soft, sugary sand host beach goers and volleyball players. The beach has shuffleboard, food concessions and picnic areas with grills, plus a skateboarding park and the Ludington Area Jaycees Mini-Golf Course.
Each hole at the golf course recognizes a Ludington attraction or organization with a descriptive panel. Hole #16 pays homage to the gorgeous sunsets over Lake Michigan, and Stearns Park Beach is one of the prime viewing sites. Crowds tend to come about an hour early to catch the sky come alive. Every night is a little bit different, as we noticed during our three-night stay in Ludington.
An evening activity at Waterfront Park is watching the SS Badger’s 7 p.m. arrival. While waiting for the ship to come in, you can peruse the park’s nine bronze sculptures depicting Ludington history. People also frequent Waterfront Park for the Badger’s departure for Wisconsin at 9 in the morning.
Big Sable Point Lighthouse, Ludington State Park. (Photo credit: Pure Ludington)
North of town, Ludington State Park is situated between Lake Michigan and inland Hamlin Lake, offering beaches on both bodies of water plus three modern campgrounds, a rustic campground and 25 miles of trails. My goal, though, was to make the two-mile trek (one way) to Big Sable Point Lighthouse via the sand-and-gravel road and then climb the 130-step spiral staircase to the top. Accessible primarily to hikers and bicyclists, the still-functioning 1867 lighthouse became fully automated in 1968, so it no longer needs a keeper. The climb starts with a six-minute video on the black-and-white beacon, and a volunteer at the top provides more insights as you view the shoreline, sand dunes and forests of one of Michigan’s most popular state parks. (On selected days during the summer visitors can ride a bus out to the lighthouse.)
For more Michigan travel ideas, see the article 9 Great Places to Paddle in Michigan
Strolling Through History in Ludington and Mason County
Historic White Pine Village, an outdoor museum operated by the Mason County Historical Society, sheds light on pioneer life in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in and around Ludington. You can spend about two hours strolling from building to building, many of them historic structures transplanted from various places in the county.
Historic White Pine Village. (Randy Mink Photo)
Among the 30-plus buildings are a sawmill, sugar shack, blacksmith shop, general store, trapper’s cabin and one-room school house. A museum of clocks and watches recalls the Star Watch Case Company (1906-1982), once Ludington’s largest employer.
Shopping and Dining in Downtown Ludington, Michigan
A big part of a Ludington vacation is popping into downtown shops and art galleries. Antique hounds will make discoveries both indoors and outdoors at Maude’s Garage. Avenue’s End Mini Mall has handcrafted items, works of art, souvenirs and antiques. Todd & Brad Reed Photography displays stunning scenes of Michigan. For a custom-printed T-shirt, Gordy’s Skate Company offers 180-plus Michigan and Ludington designs created in-house, and can do hats, blankets pillows and hoodies as well.
One of downtown’s most popular restaurants is House of Flavors, a throwback diner/ice cream parlor playing ’50s and ’60s music. The place is decorated with 45-rpm records and old photos of family members who founded the dairy that makes the ice cream in the big factory next door. Park Dairy/House of Flavors, in the third generation of Neal family ownership, ships nationally as a private label ice cream producer.
For lunch one day at House of Flavors, I had a flight of five flavors:
- Blue Moon, the prettiest
- Peanut Brownie Crunch, peanut butter ice cream with brownie pieces
- Amaretto Cherry, amaretto ice cream with cherry-filled chocolate cups, cherry pieces and Moose Tracks fudge
- Carrot Cake, sweet cream cheese ice cream with carrot cake pieces
- Bear Claw, dark chocolate ice cream with caramel swirls and chocolate-covered cashews.
Also tempting was Michigan Pothole, described as “thick black-tar fudge in chocolate ice cream with chunks of chocolate asphalt.”
The menu at House of Flavors includes burgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese and other American standbys. I was tempted by the hot turkey sandwich—fresh roasted turkey on white bread or grilled biscuits with mashed potatoes and gravy. Instead, as a longtime fan of Monte Cristo sandwiches, I went for the delicious Monte Waffle Cristo, an indulgent mix of bacon pieces, ham chunks, Monterey Jack cheddar and rotisserie turkey on two pearl-sugar waffles, with strawberry topping for dipping. A sweet ’n’ salty delight indeed.
Ludington Bay Brewing Company is one of downtown Ludington’s most popular dining spots. (Photo credit: Alicia Magnuson Photography)
Ludington Offers a Robust Beer Scene
My favorite restaurants were two brewpubs a block apart on James Street. With pizza on the patio at Ludington Bay Brewing Company, I enjoyed a flight of beers that included Badger Blue, a cream ale with blueberries; Flower Child, a lavender-infused wheat ale; and the oh-so-tasty Coconut Brown, a smooth dark ale with a coconut-y aroma. The Big Cheese pizza featured bacon and garlic creme sauce on a focaccia bread-like crust.
The patio at Jamesport Brewing Company offers nice views along with brews. So that my group could look out on Lake Michigan and the marina at Waterfront Park, we waited for an outdoor table. Happily, as it was after 7 p.m., we could see the Badger, too.
Along with Jamesport brews like Scottish Strong Ale, Blood Orange Hefeweizen and Peach Belgian, I ordered the Michigan Cherry Salad (dried cherries, blue cheese crumbles, cherry vinaigrette) and a cup of Cheddar Ale Soup. My companion opted for the Cherry Bourbon Burger, a half-pounder glazed with homemade cherry bourbon sauce, and topped with melted pepperjack and sriracha fried onions.
For travel ideas for Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, see this itinerary.
Excursions from Ludington
Amber Elk Ranch, between Ludington and Scottville, provides close encounters with North America’s largest deer species. Tractor-drawn wagon rides through the pastures give visitors a chance to hand-feed a corn/oats mix to the elk and touch their fuzzy antlers.
In the Silver Lake area, about a half hour south of Ludington, Mac Wood’s Dune Rides has been entertaining thrill-seekers since 1930. Offering scenic vistas of both Lake Michigan and Silver Lake, the 40-minute rides in dune scooters (four-wheel-drive vehicles equipped with aircraft tires) go up and down the rolling hills of grass-covered sand to the delight of about 20 hooping and hollering passengers. The driver stops from time to time to talk about the dunes and area history. At one point, everyone gets out to pose for photos along the Lake Michigan shoreline and in an oversized beach chair.
SS Badger: A Floating Landmark
The four-hour crossing between Ludington and the Wisconsin shore (daily, May to October) is more than just going from Point A to Point B. It’s an experience in itself, something I’d wanted to do ever since hearing about the last coal-fired passenger steamship operating in the United States. Built in 1953 to carry railroad cars across Lake Michigan, the SS Badger, now in its 71st season, is the last of 14 Ludington-based car ferries still transiting this inland sea.
Besides transporting up to 600 passengers, the seven-story vessel, named after the University of Wisconsin athletic teams, hauls cars, RVs, motorcycles, tour buses and freight-carrying trucks, even farm and industrial equipment, but no longer trains.
From May to October, the SS Badger car ferry departs Ludington for the four-hour trip across Lake Michigan. (Photo credit: Kim Skeltis)
I kept so busy during the 60-mile trip that the time sped by. When we docked in Manitowoc, I wasn’t quite ready to get off, so I lingered on deck watching the young car attendants retrieve passengers’ cars from the cargo hold, drive them onto the dock and run back for the next one. Motorcyclists, RVers, and truck and bus drivers move the vehicles themselves.
Many of us spent a good chunk of our time playing bingo and trivia (for prizes) in the ship’s Main Lounge. I also visited the gift shop, perused car ferry exhibits in the museum room, and stood at the railing taking in the vast blue expanses of Lake Michigan and watching for freighters. For relaxing, benches and chairs are scattered throughout the two passenger decks, indoors and out. You can walk around the entire ship; six laps equals a mile.
For those who desire rest or privacy, the vessel has 40 staterooms equipped with two twin beds, a sink and toilet.
Some passengers passed the time playing cards and board games in one of the lounges, while others read a book or napped under a blanket in a lounger at the bow. Younger travelers watched animated movies in the theater or played Pac-Man in the arcade. There’s even a playroom for toddlers. Each deck has food and drink service—think hot dogs, bratwurst, burgers, pizza, popcorn, soft pretzels, nachos, salads, fruit cups, ice cream treats. For many locals, the Badger is a time-honored tradition.
It’s advisable to bring an extra layer for warmth, as temperatures out on the “high seas” are 10 to 15 degrees cooler than ashore. For about an hour of the cruise there’s no land to be seen. The Badger travels at an average speed of 18 mph or 15.6 knots.
Group tour operator fares for 2024 (based on a minimum of 15 passengers) are $62 one way, $106 roundtrip for adults. Student rate (ages 5-18) is $32 one way, $54 roundtrip. The motorcoach fare (including the driver/escort passenger fares) is $286 one way, $572 roundtrip.
By Randy Mink
Complete travel information is available from the Ludington Area Convention & Visitors Bureau.
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Lead photo: The SS Badger departs from Ludington’s harbor. (Photo credit: Kim Skeltis)
