With roots dating back to the 18th century, the historic city of York and surrounding York County abound with possibilities for group tour itineraries.
Brimming with colonial history and industrial heritage, the city of York is my kind of place. A hub of arts, culture and good eats as well, it’s worth a day or two on any south-central Pennsylvania itinerary.
On a recent swing through the area, I based myself for two nights at the historic Yorktowne Hotel, a magnificently renovated 1925 landmark and member of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton. I liked the retro vibe in the lobby, with piped-in 1940s music and a giant mural of Frank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald in the bar/cafe. The 11-story hotel’s Graham Rooftop Lounge is another cool place to hang out.
Mural Park in downtown York, Pennsylvania
Next door to the hotel, I found centuries-old gravestones outside shuttered Zion Lutheran Church. Mural Park, just a block away, abounds with color-splashed works of art adorning buildings and shipping containers. Many other points of interest are within easy walking distance of the Yorktowne.
What initially attracted me to York was its stint as the seat of the Second Continental Congress during the American Revolution in 1777-1778. With British troops heading to Philadelphia, Congress had felt compelled to retreat across the Susquehanna River and decided to set up shop in York.
Historical markers and murals downtown recall events of the period, such as Congress’ adoption of the Articles of Confederation, the United States’ first constitution. Another sign commemorates “The First National Thanksgiving,” a day of gratitude (November 1, 1777) proclaimed from York by the Congress in celebration of the Continental Army’s victory over the British at Saratoga. (Unfortunately, the city has few remaining structures from colonial days.)
I also knew York County’s reputation as a manufacturing center, being particularly aware of its snack food industries. “Made in York” was a phrase I encountered a number of times, as the area is proud of its makers.
Hotbed of American History, Hub of Industrial Innovation
York County History Center, a state-of-the-art museum housed inside a former power plant, makes a good starting point for exploring downtown York. Exhibits in cavernous galleries cover everything from the city’s Revolutionary roots to slavery, the Civil War and issues of today. The History Makers Tower, mounted on the base of the old steam plant’s smokestack, is a touchscreen display that spotlights local achievers from all walks of life.
The York Peppermint Pattie, first made in downtown York in 1940, is featured at the York History Center Museum.
Looking around the museum, I especially liked tapping into York County as the “Snack Food Capital of the World.” Snyder’s of Hanover is nationally famous for its pretzels, and Stauffer’s was one of the first producers of animal crackers. Martin’s and Utz potato chips also are made in the county. Did you know that 80 percent of U.S.-made hard pretzels come from Pennsylvania? And I learned that the chocolate-covered York Peppermint Pattie, though now produced in Mexico by Hershey, made its debut in downtown York in 1940.
The History Center pays homage to local companies like York Barbell, which manufactures barbells and weights. Corporate offices of the fitness equipment pioneer are easily recognized from I-83 by the revolving weightlifter statue. The campus is home to the official Weightlifting Hall of Fame & Museum.
York Barbell and other local industries also are highlighted at the Agricultural & Industrial Museum, a History Center satellite location a few blocks away. That facility, once a plant that made boilers, features large-scale items like antique autos made in York and a restored 1916 trolley car, plus exhibits on cigar rolling, casket making and Pfaltzgraff, the ceramics company known for its dinnerware, established in 1811.
One evening from the History Center, I joined six other people for a 90-minute “Revolutionary York” downtown walking tour that took us back to the 18th century. The next day, my guided Colonial Complex tour included the half-timbered Golden Plough Tavern, which dates to 1741; the neighboring General Horatio Gates House, circa 1751; and reconstructed Colonial Courthouse, where Congress adopted the Articles of Confederation. (Keeping in the spirit of ’76, the town’s Atlantic League professional baseball team is called the York Revolution, or Revs for short.)
Downtown York: Hotspot for Food Lovers
Central Market House, a cavernous space two blocks from the History Center, has been a York fixture since 1888. It took me three walk-arounds to decide which of the 20 food stalls to choose.
Soup Dragon, for example, offers “soup and pie for the medieval soul,” with items like kielbasa potato soup and shrimp and corn chowder. Among the pies: peach crumble, gooseberry rhubarb and blueberry acai. 2 Wild & Crabby Guys serves up seafood with a Mexican twist. How about a blackened shrimp-crab cake chimichanga in a flour tortilla?
Central Market House in downtown York
The empanada menu at Salt + Sugar ranges from BBQ brisket and buffalo chicken to the Hawaiian (sauteed pineapple with ham and cheese). Cheesy Does It gets creative with grilled cheese sandwiches and cheesesteaks. Or perhaps you hunger for Thai food, sushi or Korean barbecue. Or maybe hoagies, pizza or hot ’n’ fresh donuts and bagels. There are seating areas throughout the hall, which is open Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
Over the last decade, downtown York, particularly the Market District, has seen a surge in diverse restaurant offerings. Choices range from The Fig & Barrel Club and Gift Horse Brewing Company to the scratch Italian kitchen at Tutoni’s Restaurant and ethnic favorites Hamir’s Indian Fusion and Neama’s Egyptian Foods. All are close to the Appell Center for the Performing Arts, a complex that consists of the historic Strand and Capitol theaters.
Touring York County by Train or Boat
For a relaxing excursion in the York County countryside, consider a ride on the Northern Central Railway. From the 1860s depot in New Freedom, I took the train to Howard Tunnel, the oldest operating train tunnel in the U.S. We had 15 minutes to deboard and explore the tunnel, built in 1838. Besides facts about the tunnel’s construction, the narration reveals that the Northern Central was attacked by Confederate soldiers three times during the Civil War and Abraham Lincoln’s funeral train rattled over the same tracks on its way from Washington, D.C. to Harrisburg and points north.
Passing through the towns of Railroad, Glen Rock, Hanover Junction and Seven Valleys, the 20-mile, three-hour roundtrip in mid-20th century railcars included a box lunch. On the tree-lined path parallel to the tracks were hikers and bikers trekking along the Heritage Rail Trail, a linear York County park. Tours with American Rail Bike let pedalers explore the railroad on custom-built rail bikes.
For cruising the Susquehanna River, there’s the Chief Uncas, an electric motor yacht built in 1912 for beer tycoon Adolphus Busch. From Memorial Day through October, the one-hour “River Discovery Tour” and 90-minute “Sunset Cruise” depart from the Zimmerman Heritage Center in Wrightsville.
Other Excursions in York County, Pennsylvania
One trip from downtown York took me to Dillsburg, where Eichelberger Distillery at Dills Tavern offers tours and tastings on weekends. Situated in a collection of buildings operated by the Northern York County Historical and Preservation Society, the reproduction 18th century whiskey distillery uses recipes, equipment and techniques faithful to the period.
Snyder’s of Hanover Factory Outlet Store
To sample another York County maker, I drove to Hanover to check out the Snyder’s of Hanover Factory Outlet Store, discovering—to my surprise—that the company and others (like Pepperidge Farm, Lance, Cape Cod, Jay’s, Tom’s and Krunchers) are owned by Campbell’s, the soup king. Besides chips and other snacks for sale, the store had a mountainous display of Campbell’s cream of chicken and cream of mushroom soup. The adjacent plant makes Cape Cod chips as well as pretzels.
Stauffer’s cookies and crackers can be found at the Meiji Outlet Store in York, a place I want to visit next time. Founded in York, the D.F. Stauffer Biscuit Co. is now operated by Meiji Seika Ltd. of Japan.
York County is about 54 miles north of Baltimore and 97 miles south of Philadelphia.
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Story and photos by Randy Mink, Senior Editor
Lead – York Barbell exhibit at the Agricultural and Industrial Museum
