Breweries, artisan foods, farm markets, an old-fashioned bakery and a must-see museum of local history highlight visits to this Western Michigan city
In preparing for my trip to Michigan’s second-largest city, the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum and Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park were high on my checklist, and they truly are outstanding attractions with not only regional but national appeal. But some of my best memories of Grand Rapids are the unexpected discoveries I made.
I knew about the craft beer scene, as Grand Rapids has been called Beer City USA—the area boasts about 50 breweries. So, soon after checking in to downtown’s Amway Grand Plaza, I walked over to Founders Brewing Co., one of the nation’s largest craft breweries, and got a high-top table with views of the brew tanks; it was a tad too cool for the outdoor patio. The raspberry Rubaeus, one of 20 beers on the drink menu, was the perfect complement to the Michigan Apple Salad with dried cherries, tomato, blue cheese crumbles and cooked chickpeas for crunch.
At another downtown brewpub, New Holland Brewing Co. – The Knickerbocker, I had the Dixie Luau pizza (ham, bacon, pineapple) with a beer flight that included their signature, bourbon barrel-aged Dragon’s Milk Stout. New Holland, whose beers are found throughout the Midwest, is based in Holland, Michigan, a half hour from Grand Rapids.
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Van’s Pastry Shoppe. (Randy Mink Photo)
Mitten Brewing for Beer, Pizza, Baseball Nostalgia
For its friendly neighborhood feel, my favorite Grand Rapids brewpub was The Mitten Brewing Co., which occupies an 1890 firehouse that served the city’s northwest area for 76 years. The Mitten has won awards from Grand Rapids Magazine for best brewery and best pizza.
The second floor is decorated with black-and-white pictures of firefighters and uniforms, while the baseball-themed main level displays Detroit Tigers memorabilia—pennants, team photos, vintage newspaper clips and a framed picture of all-time great Al Kaline. One yellowing newspaper celebrates the Tigers’ 1968 World Series win, its headline declaring, “We Win! City Goes Wild After Tigers Victory.”
Along with a flight of six beers served on a wooden, Michigan-shaped platter, my guest and I devoured a Hog Heaven pizza featuring chipotle barbecue sauce and pulled pork from Two Scotts BBQ across the street. Multi-colored tortilla strips sprinkled on top called for some picture taking before diving in. We had considered another specialty pizza, the Westerdog, which combines chili bean sauce, chopped hot dogs, cheddar jack, mustard, ketchup, pickles and onions. Next to our table in the first-floor taproom was the pole that firefighters slid down—just like in the movies.
One of our beers was The Harwell, a wheat brew that pays homage to longtime Tigers broadcaster Ernie Harwell. Another was Peanuts and Cracker Jack, a robust porter. Also on the menu: a strawberry watermelon hard seltzer named after Hall of Fame player and manager Sparky Anderson, who led the Tigers to a world championship in 1984.
Van’s Pastry Shoppe, Grand Rapids. (Randy Mink Photo)
A Neighborhood Bakery With Personality and Irresistible Treats
Wherever I travel I’m always looking for a good bakery, preferably the old-fashioned kind, so I was delighted to find Van’s Pastry Shoppe, a Fulton Street favorite for more than 90 years. Operated by the fourth generation of the Vander Meer family, Grand Rapids’ oldest bakery has been at its current Southeast Side location since 1942.
Upon entering the shop, the first thing you notice is the star-spangled decor—lots of red, white and blue—and shelves full of character cookie jars bearing the images of everyone from Fred Flintstone and Bugs Bunny to Marilyn Monroe, Mr. Potato Head and Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz.
The variety of donuts, Danishes and other pastries is almost overwhelming, but you won’t be disappointed whatever your choice. I opted for a jelly-filled Bismarck and cherry fried cinnamon donut for breakfast and, for later, an apple fritter and a cream-filled, chocolate-covered long john.
Foodies Flock to the Grand Rapids Downtown Market
For lunch one day, I drove over to the Grand Rapids Downtown Market, whose food court features 17 shops and eateries with an artisan twist, among them:
- Rak Thai, with classic noodle and rice dishes
- Cafe de Miro, offering Kurdish-style Mediterranean cuisine
- Tacos el Cunado for Mexican street food
- Juju Bird, renowned for its buttermilk fried chicken and sides like mashed potatoes and mac & cheese
- Sushi Market
- Pinktail Poke
- Fish Lads—fish from the Great Lakes and fresh seafood flown in daily; excellent fish & chips
- Carvers, a butcher offering high-end meats along with sandwiches and burgers
- Gourmet food purveyors like Spice Merchants, Old World Olive Co. and Dorothy & Tony’s Gourmet Popcorn
It was a hard choice, but my stomach voted for Carvers, where I ordered the Aloha Hot Dog, a Kobe beef dog with barbecue pork, spicy mayo, cilantro and pineapple.
The market provides seating on two levels, including an outdoor terrace that overlooks the downtown skyline. Its second-floor greenhouse is an event center and wedding venue. An incubator kitchen is available for start-up food businesses.
Grand Rapids Public Museum. (Randy Mink Photo)
Grand Rapids Public Museum is a Must-See
On the Grand River, just a block from the Gerald Ford Museum, resides the Grand Rapids Public Museum, a multi-faceted downtown attraction. It really drew me in; I stayed there much longer than I had intended.
Whether you’re interested in history, fashion or the natural world, you’ll find pockets of interest. I spent time watching oral histories provided by Michigan’s indigenous Anishinabek people. In interviews, they discussed topics ranging from spirituality to discrimination. I learned about the boarding school period (from 1879 to the mid-20th century) during which they were sent to U. S. government-operated schools to learn vocational skills. The schools tried to stamp out Indian culture, punishing students for speaking their native language and practicing traditional customs. Some videos and exhibits shine a light on the Native Americans’ military service.
I also liked the exhibits on early immigrants who began businesses in Grand Rapids, like the 1914 arrival from Armenia who built and sold motorized popcorn wagons. A re-creation of Washington Hat Cleaners & Shoe Shiners tells the story of Greek immigrants who came to Grand Rapids in the 1920s. And there were enterprising Dutch newcomers whose factories produced wooden shoes and cigars.
One of the more unusual exhibits at the Grand Rapids Public Museum is “Fashion & Nature.” Viewing the worldwide fashion industry through the lens of sustainability, it raises concerns about the exploitation of human labor and natural resources.
The museum’s taxidermy collections showcase fish, birds and mammals native to the Great Lakes region, while a new high-tech exhibit, “The Robot Zoo,” displays robotic animals to demonstrate how they move.
Ed Dunneback & Girls Farm Market, Grand Rapids. (Randy Mink Photo)
Farm Markets and U-Pick Orchards in Grand Rapids
Cruising the countryside, I found Ed Dunneback & Girls Farm Market, on a fruit farm dating back to 1925. As strawberries were in season, they were promoting strawberry shortcake, slushies, salsa, shakes and sundaes, even strawberry pizza. The store also offered freshly baked donuts and cookies, just-picked cherries and house brand Pink Barrel wines.
At Robinette’s Apple Haus & Winery, on a farm established in 1911, I had fun picking cherries and bought Robinette Cellars-labeled sangria and cherry wine. Peaches, nectarines and apricots are available for u-pick in August, while apple-picking starts in mid-September. A corn maze and weekend hayrides attract families in fall. Wine tasting and boxed lunches can be arranged for groups.
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By Randy Mink, Senior Editor
Lead photo – The Mitten Brewing Co., Grand Rapids. (Randy Mink Photo)
