Whitewater thrills and scenic vistas in America’s newest national park, along with slices of Civil War history, await travelers in the Mountain State
By Randy Mink, Senior Editor
Paddling furiously through swirling rapids…bouncing off boulders….being tossed around mercilessly by a raging river on a cool spring day.
Paddlers of all abilities are welcome on New River rafting trips arranged by Adventures on the Gorge. (Photo credit: Adventures on the Gorge)
Whitewater rafting is not for the faint of heart, and everyone comes away drenched. But, boy, our guided afternoon expedition on the lower New River in West Virginia sure was fun. Mixed in with fear and trepidation was a lot of laughing and whooping it up.
After two hours negotiating 22 sets of rapids, with some nice calm stretches in between, our group of amateur paddlers—clad in wet suits, life jackets and helmets—felt a sense of accomplishment. Not one of us fell out of the raft, thanks to the expert instructions from crack guide Shayla, a teacher by trade and a true student of the New River.
More than 50 miles of the waterway runs through New River Gorge National Park, the newest of America’s 63 national parks. The linear park’s canyon walls rise 1,000 feet above the river, creating some of the most dramatic scenery in the entire Appalachian chain.
For many, the lushly forested kingdom inevitably conjures up the lyric “Almost Heaven” from the John Denver song “Country Roads, Take Me Home.” The tune often ran through my mind as I rafted, hiked and drove through the West Virginia wilderness. It seems natural that the Mountain State’s tourism motto is “Almost Heaven.”
Adventures on the Gorge, a full-fledged resort on the rim of West Virginia’s New River Gorge. (Photo credit: Adventures on the Gorge)
Resort-Style Base Camp
Our group was based at Adventures on the Gorge, one of several adventure-style resorts bordering the national park. Besides rafting trips on the New and Gauley rivers, other resort-arranged activities include ziplining, hiking, fishing, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, mountain biking and rock climbing. Adventures on the Gorge, located near the quirky mountain town of Fayetteville, offers a range of accommodations, from camping and glamping sites to simple cabins and large cottages.
In the evening at Chetty’s Pub, resort guests can view their day’s rafting adventure on the big screen. We caught clips of our group going through rapids, but sometimes only one or two heads were visible as most of the bodies were immersed in the roiling waves. I felt most afraid when we were about to enter a series of rapids—our guide alerted us to what could happen, advising us where to go if we went overboard. Not that I would remember any of her advice in the panic of being swept under.
One of the rowdier rafting parties that day hopped into the river at several points, frolicking in quiet waters away from the rapids. Our crew was not so adventurous.
For those not up for physical exertion and who still want a thrilling river experience, New River Jetboats offers rides from Hawks Nest State Park. The 12-mile roundtrip tour aboard the 16-passenger jetboat takes a half hour.
Hikers on the Endless Wall Trail enjoy panoramic views of New River Gorge from Diamond Point. (Randy Mink Photo)
New River Gorge on Foot
On a guided three-hour hike with Adventures on the Gorge, our group tackled the Endless Wall Trail, which provided glorious overlooks prompting thoughts that this was, indeed, “Almost Heaven.” At Diamond Point, a clifftop studded with gnarly pines clinging to the smooth sandstone, we lingered for a half hour just to soak it all in, eyeing rafters and kayakers far below. The straight drop-off added an element of excitement—and danger.
At one lookout along the trail, we had great views of New River Gorge Bridge, a symbol of the park and a structural work of art. At 867 feet, the engineering marvel is the country’s third-highest bridge and the Western Hemisphere’s longest single-span steel arch bridge.
I highly recommend taking the Bridge Walk, a tempting challenge for the adventure-minded. On a guided 1½-hour trek along a narrow catwalk under the bridge, I and 11 other “daredevils” walked single file through the forest of rust-colored girders, each of us strapped in a harness attached to a cable running the length of the bridge. We could hear the rumble of traffic on the four-lane highway above.
The guided Bridge Walk involves negotiating the narrow catwalk that spans the New River Gorge Bridge.
Though feeling secure in my harness, I tried not to look down too often but did stop now and then to photograph the scenic splendor, making sure I didn’t drop my iPhone into the abyss. At one point high above the treetops, we sat down and dangled our legs over the gorge as the guide took a picture of us individually. (Obviously, the Bridge Walk is not for those with a fear of heights.)
Subterranean Explorations
In addition to high-altitude escapades, our travels in southern West Virginia included underground adventures.
At Lost World Caverns near Lewisburg, the half-mile tour is self-guided, so guests can explore at their own pace 120 feet below the earth’s surface. The show cave, one of more than 2,500 documented caves in the Greenbrier Valley, abounds with magical formations, including the 30-ton Snowy Chandelier, one of the nation’s largest stalactites. The temperature is a constant 52 degrees.
For those who don’t mind scrambling over muddy rocks and crawling through tight spots, the four-hour wild cave tour goes beyond the standard trail, venturing into passageways like the Squeeze Box, Long Crawl and Birth Canal. Gloves, kneepads and helmets with lights are provided.
Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine. (Randy Mink Photo)
People have long associated West Virginia with coal mining, and it is still a vital industry in parts of the state. In Beckley, a 45-minute tour at Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine provides revealing insights into what it takes to mine coal. On a train ride into the dark, dank tunnel of a mine that closed in 1953, our 76-year-old guide, a retired miner, explained the hardships faced by workers, how they extracted coal and what life was like in company-controlled coal camps. Before or after the tour, you can visit restored 1920s workers’ homes, plus a school, church and mine superintendent’s house, that have been transplanted to the museum grounds.
Beckley also is home to Tamarack Marketplace, a showcase of artisan products made in West Virginia. Items for sale range from handcrafted quilts, baskets, glass and pottery to honey, maple syrup, jams and fruit wines. There’s a big selection of colorful Fiesta dinnerware, and you might catch a glassblowing demonstration.
Tamarack’s food court features Appalachian-inspired fare. For a hearty snack to go, try a pepperoni roll, a West Virginia staple. As I toured state, I found these meat-filled pockets of dough in bakeries, cafes, gas stations and convenience stores. Some versions have cheese. Commonly found in coal miners’ lunch boxes, the pepperoni roll can be traced back to the time when Italian immigrants came to work in the mines.
Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. (Randy Mink Photo)
West Virginia’s Eastern Panhandle
My West Virginia trip started in the state’s Eastern Panhandle, a chunk of real estate that borders Virginia and Maryland. I love communing with the past in picturesque small towns, so Harpers Ferry and Shepherdstown provided me with the perfect dose of history and charm.
Harpers Ferry, strategically poised at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, has a population of only 300, and most of it belongs to a national historical park with well-preserved, mid-19th century buildings turned museums. Because of its geographical location between North and South, the village played a key role in the American Civil War and was the site of abolitionist John Brown’s famous 1859 raid on the federal armory. The John Brown Museum details the anti-slavery activist’s efforts to arm enslaved people with weapons from the armory. The failed raid, with most of his men killed or captured, is considered a catalyst for the 1861-1865 war that tore the nation apart. Brown was tried and executed.
Harpers Ferry is a destination for outdoor enthusiasts as well as history buffs. I joined a guided Shenandoah River kayaking trip with River Riders Family Adventure Resort, an outfitter that also offers whitewater rafting, tubing and zipline courses.
Shepherdstown, founded in 1734 on the banks of the Potomac, is the oldest town in West Virginia. An arts-minded place with a bohemian vibe and a lively retail corridor dotted with boutiques and eateries, it is home to many retirees and students. Shepherd University’s grand McCurran Hall, with its clock tower and soaring white Corinthian columns, dominates East German Street, the main drag. For a real treat, drop into Mountaineer Popcorn, where the 23 flavors range from roasted sweet corn to loaded baked potato.
Following the Battle of Antietam in neighboring Maryland, the bloodiest single-day battle of the Civil War, almost every building in Shepherdstown served as a field hospital for the wounded. This sad history, along with tales of ghosts and hauntings, comes alive on ghost tours with Shepherdstown Mystery Walks.
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Lead photo – New River Gorge Bridge. (Photo credit: Adventures on the Gorge)
