Some important American generals have shaped the image of this cozy Shenandoah Valley town, a dream destination for history hounds and nostalgia buffs.
When I think of idyllic Main Street communities with a walkable historic district, my thoughts often drift toward Lexington, Virginia. Long ago, when deciding where to go to college for journalism, I seriously considered Washington & Lee University, whose picture-perfect campus symbolizes the town’s sense of order and gentility. What a nice place to live, I mused.
Inviting shops and eateries reside in historic buildings on Main Street in Lexington, Virginia, the seat of largely rural Rockbridge County. (Photo credit: Chris Weisler/Lexington and the Rockbridge Area Tourism)
Thankfully, things haven’t changed radically since then. Often included in lists of best small towns in the South, Lexington (population 7,500) packs a big punch for its size. Home to the Virginia Military Institute (VMI) as well as Washington & Lee, it combines vestiges of yesteryear with the youthful vibes of a college town. History looms around every corner.
Often described by the overused words “quaint” and “charming,” Lexington is the ideal place for poking around. A walking tour map describes 40-some points of interest, including private homes in a residential district.
Many downtown buildings date back to the early 19th century, the oldest to the late 1700s. For an overview of the well-preserved historic core, consider a clip-clopping horse-drawn tour with Lexington Carriage Company and then hit the brick sidewalks on your own.
Blessed with a vibrant retail and dining scene centered around Main Street, Lexington makes good base of operations for exploring Virginia’s southern Shenandoah Valley. The scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, running along the crest of the Appalachian Mountains, is a short drive away.
The public is welcome to watch the Friday afternoon cadet parades at Virginia Military Institute in Lexington, Virginia. (Photo credit: Burton Floyd/Lexington and the Rockbridge Area Tourism)
Virginia Military Institute Offer Tours, Museum Exhibits and Pageantry
Lexington’s two college campuses, adjacent to each other and just blocks from Main Street, are chief tourist attractions. VMI, the country’s oldest state-funded military college (1839), offers cadet-led walking tours daily, and visitors are treated to the pageantry of a full-dress parade on most Friday afternoons in spring and fall.
The VMI Museum, a treasure house of U.S. military history, features a replica of a cadet barracks room, a magnificent collection of rare antique firearms and artifacts like the helmet and VMI dress uniform of World War II General George S. Patton (class of 1907). The exhibit on Confederate General Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson has the bullet-scarred raincoat he was wearing when mortally wounded in a Civil War battle; his taxidermied horse, Little Sorrel, is preserved for the ages.
Jackson taught for 10 years at VMI, and downtown’s Jackson House Museum shines a light on his life as a civilian. A statue of Jackson, erected in 1891, stands in Oak Grove Cemetery, where he, his wife and other family members are buried along with veterans of wars going as far back as the American Revolution.
Also on the VMI post, characterized by its austere Gothic architecture, is the George C. Marshall Library (open by appointment only), which honors America’s first five-star general (VMI class of 1901). Marshall’s remarkable career led to appointments as U.S. Army chief of staff, U.S. secretary of state and U.S. secretary of defense. He is most remembered for the Marshall Plan, which aided the reconstruction of post-WW II Europe.
Statues of Marshall and Washington stand by the Barracks, built in 1851. The four cannons there, cast in 1848, were used by Professor Jackson to teach artillery tactics.
Visitors at VMI can expect a “Hello, ma’am” or “Good evening, sir” from cadets passing by. Ten percent of the cadets are women.
Washington & Lee’s Picturesque Campus Invites Exploration
An air of civility also permeates neighboring Washington & Lee (W&L), where the small liberal arts school’s long-standing “Speaking Tradition” calls for members of the community to greet each other—and visitors—when out and about.
The Colonnade, Washington & Lee University. (Photo credit: Chris Weisler/Lexington and the Rockbridge Area Tourism)
In the heart of the leafy grounds, The Colonnade, an ensemble of Neoclassical red-brick buildings fronted by gleaming white columns, faces an expansive lawn that sweeps down the hillside. Exhibits in Washington Hall (1824) tell the story of George Washington’s financial gifts to the college, the ninth oldest in the U.S. (founded in 1749 as Augusta Academy). Crowning the building is a statue of the Revolutionary War hero who became America’s first president.
In nearby University Chapel, a museum holds art and artifacts with connections to Washington and Robert E. Lee, commander of Confederate forces during the Civil War and the school’s president (1865-1870) when it was known as Washington College. The chapel’s auditorium has a marble statue of a recumbent Lee; he is buried in the family crypt a floor below, at museum level. (Lee’s wife was the great-granddaughter of Martha Washington, the wife of George Washington. Lee’s oldest son, George Washington Custis Lee, succeeded his father as president of the school and served for 27 years.)
Outside the museum is the grave of Traveller, Lee’s trusty horse. The tall, handsome American Saddlebred, iron gray with a black mane and tail, served the general during the Civil War and became a fixture on campus. Students could almost set their clocks by Lee’s late afternoon rides into the surrounding hills.
The Reeves Museum of Ceramics, another campus attraction, showcases one of the country’s largest and finest collections of ceramics. It displays hundreds of Asian, European and American pieces, including a creamer manufactured in China that depicts the signers of the Declaration of Independence with Asian features.
The distinguished school (all-male until 1984) enrolls about 2,200 students from almost every state and some 50 countries. In addition to traditional liberal arts and sciences, W&L offers top-ranked pre-professional programs in business, journalism, education and law.
The University Store stocks a complete line of W&L logo gear, from pajamas and polo shirts to golf balls and dog collars.
Shopping and Dining in Downtown Lexington
Lexington’s compact central business district abounds with independently owned stores and restaurants. You’ll find everything from art galleries and book stores to wine merchants and chic apparel shops.
Many downtown Lexington shops and galleries feature creations by regional artisans. (Photo credit: Lexington and the Rockbridge Area Tourism)
Reflecting the region’s Scots-Irish pioneer heritage, Celtic Tides specializes in Scottish, Irish and British Isles gifts such as kilts, jewelry, apparel and glassware. Home goods are found at stores like Yesterday Once More, Ladles & Linens, Curated Interiors and Lizzie’s of Lexington. You can gear up for outdoor adventure at Walkabout Outfitter and Lex Running Shop. Outfit your pet at Lexington Pet Place or pick up a board game at Just Games.
Blue Sky Bakery, a great lunch spot, makes sandwiches served on honey whole wheat or thick, chewy focaccia bread. I had the house-made pimento cheese on focaccia with a side of baked apples and, for dessert, a slice of its signature three-layer carrot cake.
At Hardens restaurant, the Smash Burger, a double patty with cheddar cheese and aioli sauce, was one of the two best burgers I’ve ever had, and I’d rate the creamy mac and cheese pretty high, too. Others in my group raved about the fried chicken tacos, Korean rice bowl and steak frites.
Heliotrope Brewery, the only downtown microbrewery, pleased my group with their artisan sour dough pizzas and fresh craft beers. I liked the Pig & Goat pizza. Made with herbed cream, goat cheese, mozzarella, prosciutto, and fresh basil and oregano, it’s drizzled with AR’s Hot Southern Honey from the Shenandoah Valley. They give you oversized scissors to cut the pizza. Heliotrope’s outdoor patio overlooks Main Street, and there’s seating in the cozy alley as well as the taproom. The building previously housed a bike shop, insurance office, auto dealer and other businesses.
Deluxe Digs on Main Street
An outstanding boutique inn, The Georges, offers 33 guest rooms spread across four of the oldest buildings on Main Street. It is named for two generals—Washington and Marshall. (By now you may have sensed the “generals” theme that pervades Lexington.) Every room affords views of Washington & Lee, VMI, Main Street or House Mountain; some have a fireplace. Luxury amenities include Frette bed linens and robes, Peacock Alley blankets and Gilchrist & Soames toiletries.
On my recent stay at The Georges, I enjoyed a bright, white, plushly furnished room in The Livery, which occupies a former livery stable circa 1897. I loved the high ceilings, huge mirrors, and heated bathroom floor and towel rack. My room looked out onto the 1894 First Baptist Church of Lexington, a red-brick landmark notable for its stained glass and soaring white steeple. It is one of several churches that grace Main Street.
The Georges is a boutique inn with 33 rooms scattered across four Main Street buildings, including the 1789 Alexander-Withrow House. (Sera Petras Photography/Lexington and the Rockbridge Area Tourism)
The Georges’ two eateries reflect the ambitious farm-to-table scene in Lexington, using the freshest seasonal ingredients from Shenandoah Valley farmers and producers. TAPS, the convivial lobby lounge in the 1809 Marshall Building, serves upscale pub food, craft beer and creative cocktails. Haywood’s Piano Bar & Grill is located in the 1789 Alexander-Withrow House across the street.
Natural Bridge a Short Drive from Town
Along with the pleasures of historic Lexington, Natural Bridge State Park anchors tourism in this part of the Shenandoah Valley. Located 13 miles south of town via U.S. Route 11, it’s named for the 215-foot-high limestone arch on land once owned by Thomas Jefferson, who called the awesome span “the most sublime of Nature’s work.”
To see Natural Bridge up-close, visitors walk down 137 steps from the big visitor center building and then take the flat, .8-mile trail that goes underneath the landmark and follows Cedar Creek as far as Lace Falls. Less active travelers can take a shuttle bus down to the creek.
Across the road from the Natural Bridge visitor center stands the stately Natural Bridge Historic Hotel & Conference Center, part of the Trademark Collection by Wyndham.
The area outside the park has its own attractions. At Caverns at Natural Bridge, the deepest caverns on the East Coast, you descend 34 stories underground on a 45-minute tour that features rooms like the Colossal Dome. Animal encounters are available at Natural Bridge Zoo and the drive-through Virginia Safari Park, home to more than 1,000 free-roaming creatures, from llamas and bison to zebras and giraffes.
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By Randy Mink, Senior Editor
Lead Photo – Lexington Carriage Company tours provide a good introduction to downtown’s historic core. (Photo credit: Chris Weisler/Lexington and the Rockbridge Area Tourism)
