Room category Romantic Lanna Grand Deluxe
Local design elements distinguish Na Nirand Romantic Boutique Resort, a quiet riverfront retreat amid big-city bustle. Its next-door neighbor is a Buddhist temple.
Nestled along the Ping River in the heart of Chiang Mai, this intimate, 45-room hideaway embodies Thailand’s distinctive character and warm hospitality. For three blissful days, Na Nirand Romantic Boutique Resort was my oasis, a cozy nest tucked away from street traffic yet less than a 10-minute walk from all the sizzle of Chiang Mai’s famous night market.
Na Nirand comprises six, two-level buildings featuring teak wood and architectural elements evocative of the Lanna-colonial style prevalent in the late 19th century. Present-day Northern Thailand was part of the ancient Lanna Kingdom. Colonial design influences give a nod toward the region’s British, Chinese and Myanmar trading history.
My second-floor room had teak and rattan furniture, teak floors, a beamed ceiling and a balcony that overlooked the courtyard’s swimming pool and lawn. Framed swatches of handwoven Lanna textiles, two hanging lamps festooned with tassels, an antique-style telephone and wire-art figures above the headboard added to the ambience.
Na Nirand guests can go next door and explore the grounds of a Buddhist temple
Out my bathroom window I could see the back wall of Wat Chai Mongkol, a beautiful Buddhist temple that I visited twice during my stay. Some guests could hear occasional chanting, and I heard crowing from roosters in the temple complex. River cruises launch from the boat landing there, but I didn’t have time to take one.
A separate riverfront building at Na Nirand, called House of Colonial, has a private pool and four luxurious Riverfront Colonial Suites ideal for honeymooners: Burmese Dream, Enchanged Chinese, Harmonious British-Indian and Siamese Love.
A massive rain tree stands adjacent to the resort’s riverside dining terrace
Riverfront Dining at Na Nirand Resort
An umbrella table on the waterside terrace of TIME Riverfront Cuisine & Bar, the resort’s restaurant, was a serene place to start the day before the stifling heat took hold. Its breakfast buffet offered a wide range of Asian and international fare, and the two cooks at the outdoor station whipped up great omelets, waffles and pancakes. The terrace was partly shaded by the massive spread of the shoreline’s iconic 100-year-old rain tree, the symbol of Na Nirand.
At lunch one day in the air-conditioned dining room, I enjoyed a bowl of khao soi, one of the region’s signature dishes. The yellow curry comes with crunchy noodles, roasted chicken confit, grilled shallots, fresh lime, pickled turnips and roasted chili oil. My classic Thai appetizers were fresh pomelo salad with crispy soft-shell crab (pomelo, native to Southeast Asia, is a large citrus fruit similar to grapefruit) and marinated pork satay served with peanut sauce and pickle-cucumber relish. For dessert, I savored coconut pudding with passion fruit sauce and assorted seasonal fruits.
The restaurant’s Glasshouse, a rooftop perch for drinks and dinner, affords 360-degree views.
Time for dessert at TIME Riverfront Cuisine & Bar
Huan Kammung, a Lanna-style teak house, has a small library and seating in various areas for privacy; it can host small parties and weddings. The first-level Na Nirand Spa is the perfect place to experience a traditional Thai massage. Closer to the lobby, the Lanna Rice Barn, constructed entirely of teak wood, contains the small Pool Bar.
Na Nirand Romantic Boutique Resort is a little slice of paradise on the Ping River.
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Story and photos by Randy Mink, Senior Editor
